Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate: Te Paerewa Koura Hou i roto i te Hangarau Whakama Ataahua

I roto i te ao hangarau whakapaipai e whanake tonu ana, ka puta te Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate (DCP) hei putanga hou, e whakakotahi ana i te matū waro hou me te matatau kiri. Hei kaihoko whakama o te whakatupuranga e whai ake nei, ka whakamahia e tēnei matū ester tōna hanganga ahurei chromanoyl-palmitate hei arotahi ki te melanogenesis i te pūtake, ka tukuna he huarahi haumaru ake, he huarahi whai hua ake ki ngā mea whakama tuku iho.

He mea hanga pūtaiao, ka mahi te DCP mā te tikanga whainga-rua: te aukati i te mahi tyrosinase—te whakakorikori whākōkī mō te hanga melanin—me te whakatairanga i te huringa keratinocyte hei tere ake i te whakakorenga o te tae. E whakaatu ana ngā whakamātautau haumanu i te 41% te hekenga o te kiato melanin i roto i ngā rā 28, me te whakapainga nui o te kanapa o te kiri me te ōritetanga o te tae. Kāore i rite ki ngā whakama matū kaha, ko tana tauira kore-whakariri e whakaatu ana i te 98% hototahi pūtau (in vitro), e pai ai mō te kiri tairongo me te tiaki i muri i te tikanga.

"He pikinga whakamua te DCP i roto i te mahi kiri tino tika," te kī a Tākuta Markus Hoffmann, te kairangahau matua i te Institute of Cosmetic Biochemistry. "Mā te whai i te pūnaha ārai mate ā-pūmua o te kiri, ka tutuki ai te whakamāramatanga kua tohua me te whakapakari anō hoki i te ārai kiri—he whanaketanga nui tēnei i runga i ngā kaihoko whakama e whakamahia ana hei whakama i ngā pūtau."

E matapaetia ana e ngā tātaritanga mākete he CAGR 34% mō ngā hua kua whakakīia ki te DCP tae noa ki te tau 2030, nā te hiahia o ngā kaihoko mō ngā whakatakotoranga "pūtaiao ma". Kei te whakauruhia e ngā kamupene ataahua o te ao me ngā waitohu motuhake tēnei whakauru ki roto i ngā serum papai, ngā kirīmi kounga hauora, me ngā pūnaha kiri ngaio, me te whakamahi i ōna whakamahinga maha - mai i te whakatikatika melasma ki te ārai i te pouri.

Ko te tutuki i ngā ture te tūāpapa o te whanaketanga o te DCP. E piri ana te matū ki ngā paerewa haumaru o te EU (EC 1223/2009) me te US (FDA 21 CFR § 73.615), me ngā aromatawai paitini e whakaū ana kāore he kaha mutagenic, carcinogenic, teratogenic rānei. Ka whakaitihia e tana tukanga hanga taiao te tapuwae waro mā te 58% ki te whakatauritea ki ngā kaihoko whakama tuku iho, e hangai ana ki ngā whakaritenga pumau o te umanga.

I te nekehanga o te umanga ataahua ki ngā otinga e ahu mai ana i ngā taunakitanga, e aro ana ki te kiri, ka tū a DCP hei tohu mō te auahatanga me te pono—e whakaputa ana i ngā hua ka taea te ine mā te hoahoa ngota ngota me te whakatairanga i te haumaru, te whai huatanga, me te kawenga taiao. Ehara tēnei i te mea he kai mā noa iho; he panonitanga tauira ki te tino pai o te kiri.